Edith's Pie, a wildly popular pie pop-up, is opening an all-day cafe in Oakland

2022-09-16 21:52:04 By : Mr. Winter Sun

Strawberry rhubarb pie from Edith’s Pie, which is opening a cafe in Oakland.

A Bay Area pop-up that’s built a loyal following for luscious, buttery pies in flavors like fudge banana cream and peanut butter and jelly is opening an all-day cafe in Oakland.

Edith’s Pie is moving into 412 22nd St., at Broadway, where Taiwan Bento recently closed. Co-owners Mike Raskin and Jeffrey Wright plan to open what they describe as their dream combination pie shop and cafe there in early 2023. The website What Now SF first reported the opening.

Pie will be available all day. Customers will be able to drop by in the mornings for a sausage, egg and cheese hand pie and cup of coffee, or hang out in the afternoon and evenings with a slice of lemon icebox pie and a glass of wine or low-ABV cocktail. Edith’s plans to stay open until 6 p.m. on weeknights and as late as 10 or 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.

Raskin said he hopes to create an evening spot that he feels Oakland lacks: “a more casual place to get a drink, but not a place that’s centered around being a bar,” he said.

With more space than at Edith’s current commissary kitchen, Raskin will be able to bake even more flaky, seasonal pies. Expect popular flavors, like key lime, strawberry rhubarb and coconut cream, and the most underrated one, in Raskin’s opinion: lemon poppy seed chess, which he said tastes exactly like Costco’s giant lemon poppy seed muffins in pie form. It draws flavor from Meyer lemons, cornmeal and a nutless almond-like extract made from reserved stone fruit pits. 

The pies reflect the seasons: plums, figs and stone fruit in the summer give way to eggnog and peppermint bark in the winter. Right now, Raskin is excited about a late-summer Concord grape pie. 

“The mottos I kept for myself when I was writing the original recipes were: not too sweet; letting fruit speak for itself; using high-quality ingredients and letting them carry the burden,” he said.

Edith’s Pie co-owner Mike Raskin is known for his buttery, flavor-packed pies.

As fall arrives, Edith’s “world famous” scribble pie — a butter walnut pie with dark chocolate and maple — will return. Edith’s savory creations, from quiches filled with farmers’ market produce to hand pies stuffed with spiced ground lamb and dates, will also be available at the new cafe.

All the buttery pie crusts are laminated, with layers of butter rather than chunks of it, which Raskin says lends crispy, tender layers rather than a more typical crumbly crust.  

The cafe will also offer “1-cent oats” — a cup of oatmeal topped with whatever fruit is on hand sold for just a penny — to provide an affordable menu item.

Wright, who comes with experience at Bay Area cocktail bars, is coming up with low-alcohol cocktails that make use of food waste, like syrups made from apple cores and banana peels. Edith’s will also serve beer and wine.

Raskin is a Bay Area native who has cooked in restaurants in Santa Cruz and Chicago. He started Edith’s, named after his mother, as a Thanksgiving pop-up in 2019. It took off during the coronavirus shutdown, eventually expanding into weekly pickups, events and wholesale delivery. 

Edith’s  recently started selling pies at Venus Pie Trap, a new beachside restaurant run by Venus Spirits in Aptos (Santa Cruz County). Edith’s will continue to sell wholesale pies after opening the cafe and plans to partner with more businesses to expand its pie reach throughout the Bay Area.

Edith’s will soon launch a crowdfunding campaign to help pay for the new space, a fundraising approach an increasing number of popular food businesses have undertaken recently, including Berkeley’s Boichik Bagels and Ok’s Deli in Oakland.

Edith’s Pie. Opening 2023. 412 22nd St., Oakland. edithspie.com

Elena Kadvany (she/her) is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: elena.kadvany@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @ekadvany

Elena Kadvany joined The San Francisco Chronicle as a food reporter in 2021. Previously, she was a staff writer at the Palo Alto Weekly and its sister publications, where she covered restaurants and education and also founded the Peninsula Foodist restaurant column and newsletter.